Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

· Deepest Coral 1930s Dress ·


I'm pretty excited about today's post! :-)

This dress has turned into one of my favorite creations- although I'm not sure how much of my admiration comes from the amazingly complementary Art Deco background we found for these photos. ;-D


But in all honesty, this dress did end up being all I ever hoped it would be, and more!

I purchased this novelty-weave, suiting-weight wool last year and pondered what to make for a while.  This color is rather uncommon and was hard to predict while purchasing online- it's not a true red, isn't rust, and isn't orange.  I finally decided that it looks like the deepest shade of coral.  And after all, Deepest Coral is so much more interesting to say than plain old Red. ;-)  It's also a much more flattering shade for my coloring than most reds, so it turned out to be a very fortuitous online purchase!


I've made several 1930s dress so far, but I had several quintessentially 30s elements on my list of "must do"s.  I still have a few, but this dress was able to cross some off the list. ;-)

- I wanted to finally do a really long skirt- I've talked in the past about how my skirts always end up shorter than I want, and so many 30s illustrations show skirts reaching almost to the ankle!  It seems like such an elegant, unique length, and I LOVE it.


- I wanted to do some fun angled seaming- the 30s are iconic in that way, and a plain fabric is the perfect way to showcase that.

For all the decorative seaming on this, I used the period method of lapped seams.  Let me tell you- it's brilliant!  Makes all those intricately seamed 30s designs seem magically possible and even easy!


- I've never made a raglan-sleeved 30s dress!  Shocking, since raglan sleeves tend to be rather flattering for me and I really love them. :-)


- Those fun "fitted at the cap, full below the elbow" sleeves (thanks to Tegan for the info- these are officially called Bishop sleeves ;-) - they're another iconic 30s style and I love them!

- A "blousy" fit- I tend to over-fit everything, but I managed to achieve the blousy look while still being fitted enough to feel comfortable. :-D


These sleeve buttons were fun!  I used vintage buttons from our stash and it worked out perfectly to have them slightly graduate up in size as they extend up the sleeve.



I love this corde clutch!  It is perfect for taking to church, weddings, and other special occasions.


Wool suitings are one of those fabrics that I desperately want to love, but they make it so hard!!  Those annoying easing marks drive me bonkers! and I can't figure out how to get rid of them (or prevent them)!  I also reaaaaally love ironing with high temperatures and with tons of steam.  Which.... gives me little shiny patches all over my wools.  Sigh.  Thankfully, I (almost) completely avoided that on this dress.

Another thing though- anyone have great tips for hemming fabrics like this?  I serge the edge, turn it up once, and then hand-hem it.  I try so hard not to pull the thread tight, but the hem always shadows through!  Do I need to use hem tape?  It seems like I'd still have the same problem, though...?  Anyway, let me know if you have any tips! :-)


I recently realized that I never show my side zippers!  This one might not be the best candidate since the bodice is supposed to be blousy, but you get the idea. :-)  I prefer regular zippers and setting them by hand and that's my default for all my garments.


I used McCalls 6993 for the skirt.  It is such an amazingly cool pattern!  McCalls' new "Archive Collection" is a bit hit-and-miss (and the dates on some of those patterns seem so odd!), but this one is definitely a win!

A fun bonus is that I recently came across this vintage pattern- Simplicity 1384.  It's the same skirt! :-)


For the bodice, I used this Mrs. Depew pattern, adding long lower sleeves.  I love the concept behind those patterns, however I had some issues with mine.  I think I might have picked the wrong size, but it was nothing that couldn't be solved with a few mock-ups. ;-)


This velvet hat is a favorite, and falls into the category of "hats that work ever so much better with my hair short".  I've been enjoying short(er) hair ever so much!!! :-)

· Photos by Kathryn ·

50 comments:

  1. Perfect outfit ! This dress is to die for ! I wish I owned a similar one !

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh. my. goodness, Lily!! This is my absolute favorite dress you have ever made!!! I've never seen a more beautiful style or color on you.
    I just love the style of this dress; the details are so charming! All of those seams show up beautifully in the solid color. I'll have to look into that Mrs. Depew pattern. I've never actually made the McCall pattern skirt with that interesting yoke detail, but now I want to after seeing yours! I love the length of the skirt as well - it's so perfectly 1930s.
    I'm so glad you showed your side zipper! I always love seeing other people's work and hearing about their sewing techniques. As for the hem, I don't know what to say about the shadows - I always have the same thing happen on certain fabrics. Iron it reallllly good and then try not to look at it? ;)
    Where do you get your gorgeous hats? I find them now and then at antique stores, but the supply seems to be awfully limited!
    All in all, this is one perfectly gorgeous dress, Lily! You made my whole entire day with this post. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Esther! I usually find hats at antique stores, estate sales, and eBay, although sometimes I am gifted them as well. :-) As for antique stores- I find that the selection (of all items, really) varies greatly from store-to-store, but also from state-to-state. Try looking up antique stores to stop at on vacations, etc!

      Delete
  3. Those angled seams are so beautiful. Your work is so inspiring and so are your photos!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I love everything about this dress! Its absolutely beautiful. And the location for the photos is perfect as well :)

    ReplyDelete
  5. This Dress!! Just gorgeous! I love that color, it's one of my favorites and looks very lovely on you. I'm such a fan of the 30s myself, but don't wear or sew it often enough. The dresses are so simple and elegant. I really like the lapped seams detail and the 'tab' at the collar is a really nice element. Great Job!

    ReplyDelete
  6. This is an absolutely lovely outfit, Lily! The color is gorgeous. Am I allowed to ask where the location is? It is AMAZING and perfect for this outfit!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Samantha! The building is a local courthouse- I was despairing of any Art Deco architecture in the area, so I was tickled pink to find this! and discover that it works so well for photos! :-)

      Delete
  7. Oh my....this is perfection! As soon as I saw your post on my feed I quickly clicked over to your blog and soaked up all the fabulousness :) That dress is AMAZING!! I love all of the intricate stitching, angled seams, sleeves, etc. Such wonderful pictures too!
    -Madison
    www.1minniemuse.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
  8. That dress is absolutely lovely! The colour, the shape the details, everything. In fact, you make me want to have another go at 1930's designs... (I keep swinging between hope and despair. The dress I made didn't work for me but there's so much I love from this era)
    About the ironing issue: I don't know how to prevent or get rid of those easing marks. I just know you get them in the more smooth and closely woven wool suitings and definitely in anything that's mixed with polyester but usually not in the more fuzzy stuff. To prevent 'iron shine', as a rule, I press everything on the wrong side unless that is really not possible (like with those pleats). In those cases, I test the fabric and if it has a tendency to get shiny, I use a pressing cloth.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lauriana, thank you! :-)

      I would highly encourage you to keep trying the 30s! It took me several tries before I really found the right elements to flatter me, but it's so worth it! I'm currently at the "hope and despair" point with the 1940s (just ripped apart and re-made a dress today....), so I feel your pain completely. ;-)

      Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately, that's the advice I was fearing.... I just hate using pressing cloths, but I think this means it's high time I learned to value them. ;-)

      Delete
  9. Eeeeee! Yep. Just as good as I remembered it to be. ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  10. This dress is so quintessentially 1930s! The colour and seams are gorgeous! And it looks absolutely wonderful on you! I think you may have persuaded me to make a 1930s dress :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Emalee! And I hope you do venture into the 30s- such a wonderful decade! :-)

      Delete
  11. You're right that color is perfect on you!!
    Such a fantastic job, the details are all just amazing :)

    ReplyDelete
  12. "Deepest coral" - I like that! :) This shade reminds me of one of my favorite colors of my favorite fingering weight yarn called "Rosehip". It's such a wonderful orangey-red. I sometimes call it Cath Kidston red, because she uses it a lot in her floral prints. :D
    This dress is simply stunning. And so is the background! Is that White Haven Mansions behind you? ;)
    About the sleeves - my first thought was "leg of mutton" sleeves, but I think they're the opposite with the fullness at the top. Perhaps this is a variation?

    Such a lovely, LOVELY dress, my dear!

    ~Michelle ^_^
    Delightful Handwork

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Michelle! *sigh* I wish it was White Havens Mansions.... oh well. You know what the worst part is? We actually *went* to WHM in London, but I wasn't wearing 1930s! :-( I will definitely need to make up for that with another trip, methinks.

      Delete
  13. OH MY GOODNESS LILY!!!! This dress is beyond gorgeous! It's splendid! It's fabulous! It's... it's... "sigh" This is a dress dreams are made of in my opinion. Someday I want to make a dress as gorgeous as the one's you make. :)

    Blessings,
    Brigid
    the Middle Sister and Singer

    ReplyDelete
  14. The details on that dress are amazing. I have to get back into sewing.
    Thank you for existing. I'm going to read all your posts
    Mardi

    ReplyDelete
  15. Oh Lily, this dress is just absolutely stunning! I'm not sure what I like more: the wonderful play with seams or the quintessential 1930s sleeves! And that color, oh!

    ReplyDelete
  16. I'm in love with those sleeves! Beautiful dress- I'm starting to realize how much I love 30s styles :)

    ReplyDelete
  17. Use something like a tea towel between your iron and the skirt. That will reduce that shiny look, and use it wet if you want/need even more damp. Use a soft cover on your ironing board when doing your hem press. It help :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much! I will give that a try. :-)

      Delete
  18. Those sleeves! I love everything about this, and it looks great on you!

    ReplyDelete
  19. I LOVE your dress. The color is stunning on you and the 30s details are gorgeously executed. Makes me want one, too!

    Best,
    Quinn

    ReplyDelete
  20. To prevent shine on the wool when pressing, use a pressing cloth on top of your item, press on the backside, or you can use a taylor's clapper to press the seam down. The dress is adorable!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kem! It's looking like I need to get used to using a pressing cloth in the near future. ;-)

      Delete
  21. Relatively new reader here; I found your blog recently while searching for 17th fashion info. This dress is so beautiful! You look stately and stunning all at once! Can you share the brand and shade of your lip color? It's perfect!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much! And welcome!

      Good question about my lip color... It was a day-of experiment, and even I don't exactly remember! I got a sampler of Besame lipsticks and mixed a couple colors to get a shade that would go with this (rather difficult to match shade of red!) dress. I only used 2 shades, and after looking at them, I really can't remember which they were! It was some mixture of Red Hot, Red Velvet, or Merlot.

      Wow, turned out to be rather unhelpful- sorry!

      Delete
  22. This is stunning and amazing. I am now completely inspired to try something like this, the wool, the solid colours, the length, you look a dream

    ReplyDelete
  23. For once I'm the first to comment with the answer! They are bishop sleeves. :-P

    And it's a gorgeous dress. What's your problem with the hem? What stitch are you using?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Tegan, yes! You're right- I *knew* I had heard of the style before! I'll go update the post with my newfound/newly-remembered knowledge. ;-D

      My problem with the hem is how it's visible from the outside- I use handstitching, and I'm careful not to catch more than 2 threads at a time. So it's not the stitching that is showing, rather just the bulk shadowing through. For example, in all the photos, you can tell exactly how deep my hem is- I'd like to avoid that, but I'm not sure how to eliminate it completely!

      Delete
    2. I think that's only solve-able with lining or a slip. Simply to make it less see-through. But other than that, I think you're stuck.

      Tegan

      Delete
    3. Oh and be careful about your pressing -- it could be that when you iron it, it makes a ridge of the hem into your main fabric. So experiment with pressing cloths and ways to iron?

      Tegan

      Delete
  24. Wow! The dress looks stunning! Great job!

    ReplyDelete
  25. This dress is simply gorgeous! The color is so unique, and those sleeves are to-die-for beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  26. hose graduated buttons and the sleeves! Plus the skirt detail! Oh my! Once again, you've turned out a stunning dress, and like you mentioned, the color really, really suits your complexion. You look fabulous in that rusty-pumpkin-coral, and also in 1930's styles. Simply perfect! ❤

    xox,
    bonita of Lavender & Twill

    ReplyDelete
  27. Sweepingly gorgeous ensemble and photographs. You are the picture of timeless elegance and a vision of loveliness in red alike.

    ♥ Jessica

    ReplyDelete
  28. Beautiful dress, so many great details.

    ReplyDelete
  29. I love the color! You are an amazing seemstress. If you have a chance, check out my newly created blog at http://laughingatdays2come.blogspot.com/
    Have a great day!

    ReplyDelete
  30. GORGEOUS!!!! I'm melting. The seaming IS incredible, and this is basically exactly what I've been wanting to incorporate in an outfit, too! It looks amazing, and I never thought to try a suiting fabric!

    ReplyDelete
  31. Wow. Thank you all SO, SO much!! I am speechless at your kind words. :-)

    You all really are the best!

    ReplyDelete
  32. Oh my how marvelous is this new dress! I LOVE that color partnered with the black of the clutch and buttons! What fun! I purchased this skirt to make with some lovely fabric I am hoping to purchase soon and now that I see it made up, I will definitely be making it! I love the pleaty bits at the hem!! What a beautiful and smartly dressed inspiration you are!
    Blessings!
    Gina

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much, Gina! I look forward to seeing your skirt- this is one of my favorite vintage re-print patterns of the year. :-)

      Delete
  33. How did I miss this!!?? Your dress is hands down my favorite blogger creation so far this year! The color, the design, styling, THE COLOR! Fantastic!! Zippers are always tricky for me but I think you did a lovely job. Great background too. :)
    -Emily

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Emily, awwww, thanks so much. :-)

      Delete
  34. This dress is stunning! I wish I could sew as well as you do. I was wondering where you found this fabric online? It reminds me a bit of the shade of orange they paint Japanese temples.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much, Elizabeth!

      What an interesting correlation for the color- you are right!

      I got the fabric years ago from fabricmartfabrics.com. I'm afraid they've long-since sold out, but they do run the most wonderful sales on wool fabrics!

      Delete

 

Copyright © 2013 Mode de Lis . All rights reserved. | Designed by PrairieRoseDesigns.com