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Saturday, August 17, 2013

Past Projects · Mustard Linen Jacket



I've been harboring and nurturing an obsession with mustard linen colonial jackets for almost a year.  When our trip to Williamsburg this April was approaching, I was feeling the need to satisfy my new "need".  The only problem was- I have this nagging need to use up stash fabric if at all possible, rather than buying new.  I am fine making some exceptions, but another colonial jacket wasn't strictly necessary (considering I already had too many clothes for the number of days we'd be there!), so I was stuck.  I did find some scraps from Mom's Flemish kirtle a few years ago, and in just the color I was dreaming of!  Only problem was- there was far less than a yard left, and it was all in odd pieces.  But, when powered by an obsession, I'm not one to back down! ;-)  I mulled over my options for a couple weeks, and finally came up with this design.  I am proud to say that I was able to fit everything on the fabric and only had to piece ONE shoulder strap!!  Yes, I was rather smug. :-)  I chose the front lacing and the waist seam to save on fabric, but I really like how it pushed me out of my normal jacket ideas!  The printed kerchief was a very fortuitous happen-stance: Mom bought the fabric for a new jacket for herself, and it just happened to be the exact colors of my new jacket and new petticoat.  I'm still not totally sold on the green petticoat- I love it all together, but it seems a bit too planned and coordinated.  But, it's the best option I've got now and it wasn't planned to match so well, so it'll do for now. ;-)  The jacket is completely hand-sewn and lined in linen.  I used J.P. Ryan's robe a l'Anglaise pattern as a base, and made several modifications.

While I was working on this project, I was reading "The Dress of the People".  After wearing this, I realized just how subconsciously I was influenced by it- this ensemble is rather akin to the painting The Ale House Door!
· Pictures by Kathryn ·

10 comments:

  1. I'm sure it's my OCD tendencies, but I happen to love the matching-ness of this outfit! It's perfect! :-)

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  2. I honestly think this is one of my favorite jackets that you've made. Plus, it's mustard. And I'm slightly obsessed with mustard right now. :)

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  3. Oh no, the green is perfect! Not too matchy at all, and the *perfect* shade to complement the mustard yellow. It looks so cute all put together, and I love the peplum modification you made on the jacket.

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  4. Kathryn and Rebecca, thanks for your votes of approval, "matchy"-wise. :-) I look forward to giving it another outing in October!

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  5. I love the gather on the short gown!! Although I have never seen a short gown with the gather on it. Still I love it and I think the green petticoat looks very nice with it. :)
    ~Bascha

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  6. This is a lovely ensemble! I really like things to match, so I fully approve the coordinated look. ;D May I ask how the jacket opens and closes? Are there hooks and eyes down the back? I inspected the pictures as closely as possible but couldn't see how the back "does up." I've made a few 18th-century bodices with lacing, but never seen it done with hooks and eyes. Love how smooth it all looks!

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  7. Miss Dashwood,

    Thank you!! The jacket closes with hand-made eyelets down the center front. If you know what to look for, you can just barely make out the very last of the lacing at the bottom! :-) I really love the look of the lacing, but I also loved the neckerchief out, so I had to make the tough decision between the two. ;-)

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  8. Ahaaaaa! Now I feel rather silly-- why didn't I notice the lacing? :P The neckerchief hides most of it so I just assumed it fastened up the back and therefore studied the back views most industriously. Oh, and you even mentioned the front lacing in the post. *facepalm* Ha. I don't know how I managed to skip over that. Blonde moment, I suppose. Thanks for your reply!

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  9. Mustard yellow is by far my favorite historical color. Not enough re-enactors wear it in my opinion. :) Lovely job. "The Dress of the People" is a great resource, and yes, you do look a bit like the image on the front of the book.
    -Emily

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  10. Hi, I was wondering what kind of fabric you used for your green petticoat? Beautiful ensemble by the way, as usual!

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